Zagreb - Capitol of Croatia

Sept. 30
Zagreb,  a city of 800,000, is beautifully laid out by a grid system established in the 19th century. Starting out as two rival settlements in medieval times, divided by a brook, it later developed into a city of neighborhoods. Our guided city tour today began with a funicular ride up to view the medieval monuments of Upper Town, including St. Marks, with its tile roof and the twin-spired St. Stevens Cathedral. (Croatia is 88% Catholic) Dolac Market is a delightful open air food and flower market leading back down to the main square and transportation hub which is sporting new blue trams.There are many beautiful 18th and 19th century middle-European style buildings and peaceful parks here in this clean city. 
Our trip leader, Ivana, is great fun and so willing to join us in her spare time, showing us the "good" places to eat. This afternoon she took a few of us "single" gals for coffee and exploring further in the city. Free time to buy a piece of folk art in the native art gallery. Our "dogs are tired", so back to our Best Western to rest up for tonight dinner on the town.

A Day in the Life of...

Tuesday,  9/29/15
Our overnight stay at the family farm was a perfect beginning to our emersion in the "Day in the Life of...", an essential part of the OAT experince. We are in the northern  agricultural "triangle" of Croatia near the Hungarian and Serbian borders, called Baranje, which means the " mother of wine". After being fed a big farm breakfast with everything either home-grown or home-made, we left our hosts for the town's community center for a talk with a local dairy farm member about the pros and cons experienced in farm production these past few years as Croatia joined the EU. Then off to a beautiful 1600 acre vinyard, followed by a tour of the wine cellers for wine tasting.
Next stop was the local kindergarten (ages 3-6), where we sang and built projects with the children out of chestnuts and acorns and toothpicks. This is the teacher's second generation of  teaching the village's children! Grand Circle Foundation (our agency) sponsors this school and is donating funds from us to build a fence for the school grounds.
Our second home-hosted meal of the trip was a lunch of Hungarian style stuffed red peppers, potatoes,and pickled beets, followed by a plum dessert cake. Our hostess grows and roasts peppers, making paprika to sell to markets.
Now for a long nap on th bus as we leave rural life behind and head to the capitol city of Zagreb for the night.

Over the river and through the woods...

9/28/15  Summer has turned into fall and the rainy season. Leaving Sarajevo behind we headed north through the green mountain valleys today, following the Drava River into the farm country of Slovonia, the easternmost province of Croatia. This region, bound by the Drava, Sava, and Danube rivers, flanked by Slovenia and Hungary, is the "breadbasket" of Croatia. We lunched at a charming "ethno-restaurant" which was part of a small resort of period-piece cottages which can be rented out. See pix below.
Final destination was our highlight today - an overnight stay at a third generation family farm in the small village of Karanac. We were met with homemade jelly donuts and brandy, then given a tour and exploration time to take pictures and visit with the family before being shown to our quaint rooms, furnished with comfy duvet beds and antique furniture. Walnut, pear, and apple trees, a vegetable garden boasting huge red tomatoes, drying peppers (for paprika), garlic, and corn, grapes on the vine, created a healing and picturesque setting after our recent city experience. Included dinner of delicious paprkash and local wine was served at the local restaurant as we were accompanied by a lively four-man folk ensemble. This day was the perfect antedote to our intense weekend!

Siege of Sarajevo - A War Story

Sunday, 9/27/15
This overcast chilly day set the mood for our bus tour through war-torn Sarajevo, witnessing the evidence of the devistating 1425  day siege of this city in the 1990's. On the edge of town we  walked through a piece of the famous "Tunnel of Hope", a mile long tunnel dug from the outskirts leading under the airport toward the city, bringing supplies in and transporting wounded out. It was sobering listening to personal accounts from our city guide, who lived though this time.
Back in town we first visited the largest city mosque, then a former synagogue, now a museum, where we saw the well-known Sarajevo Haggadah, the famous 14th century book of Jewish prayers read during Pesach, lost during  the expulsion of the Jews in World War Il, but returned to Sarajevo, as told in a  moving novel, "People of the Book".
Lunch in the Muslim neighborhood with friends and later, a wonderful home hosted dinner with a "merry widow" and her adult daughter, lightened our mood considerably tonight with much laughter and a deliciously prepared home-cooked dinner.

Pix: the tunnel; synagogue; home-hosted dinner

Sarajevo -"Jerusalem of Europe"

9/26/2015 
Sarajevo, founded by the Ottomans in the 15th century, boasts a once multicultural haven where Muslims, Serbs, Croats, Turks, and Jews coexisted, making it second only in importance to Istanbul. Prayer calls were once heard from mosques, synagogues, and churches, but this all descended into chaos after the Yugoslav wars of the 1990's. After the 4 year siege of the city by Bosnian Serbs, Sarajevo has been rebuilding and we can see the signs of religious pluralism as we walk the neighborhoods and visit the houses of worship.
These are full and impactful days for our tour group. We are fortunate to have a combination of excellent local guides, well planned walking tours through the neighborhoods, time for the joys of good food and Turkish ("Bosnian") coffee, shopping, and stimulating conversation.

Three dates which put Sarajevo on the historical map:
1914- assassination of Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand, which sparked World War 1
1984 - Winter Olympics
1991-1995  4 year Siege of Sarajevo by the Serbian Nationalists

Pix below: Muslim Old Town; rebuilt City Hall on right, burned out library (read "The Cellist of Sarajevo") on left; coppersmith shop

In Another Country

Friday, 9/25  Leaving Dubrovnik behind today, our full size coach took us north along a piece of Croatia's 850 mile coastline  before turning east into the hills, past a river valley of citris farms. First "Learning and Discovery" , a stop for fresh tangerines at a local fruit stand. Crossing the border into Bosnia & Herzegovina we followed the winding highway through lush mountains, stopping at a fading hillside Muslim village for a photo op and our second "L & D", fresh ground Bosnian coffee (served with a lump of sugar to bite on).
The highlight of the day brought us to the ancient town of Mostar, established by the Ottoman Turks in the 15th century. East meets West in this  city  to blend cultures and religions from the Middle East to Western Europe.  But we are learning how very complicated history has been in this region of the world. The city of Mostar has a beautiful 16th century bridge which spans the Neretva River, dividing the Muslim and Croat sections. In 1993, during the break-up of Yugoslavia, this iconic bridge was destroyed. Fortunately, it was restored, along with the historic city center in 2004, and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, representing the powerful symbol of reconciliation and peace (for now).
We were treated to delicious Bosnian cuisine for lunch and dinner today. On to our three night stay in Sarajevo tonight.

Excursion to Montenegro

With sunshine gone and clouds moving in, we boarded our private bus today, passports in hand, and headed "next door" to Montenegro (Black Mountain), one of our Balkan neighbors to the east. We consentrated on the beautiful coastline along the Bay of Kator. Rated one of the world's  25  most beautiful bays, it has the similar feel of a fjord, long and narrow and flanked by mountains. A small boat took us first to a man-made island near Perast where the stone church, Our Lady of the Rocks,  perches atop the wreckage of ancient ships and limestone.  Later, after our local tour guide took us on a 40 mnute  boat ride to the end of the Bay, we discovered Kotor, a well preserved walled 16th century town, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Time to lunch, al fresco, and wonder the narrow streets and old churches and shops before a downpour thunderstorm moved in on us just as we were leaving!
Learning and Discovery: (OAT integrates experiences to stimulate our curiosity!) Back in a tiny outskirt village near Dubrovnik we stopped to visit an artist who is reintroducing the old "art" of growing silkworms to completion for spinning silk, teaching a new generation of girls this skill from earlier times.  (See the picture of us feeding the silkworms mulberry leaves.)
Home for a delicious dinner of mussels at a local restaurant.

Hitting the ground running

European travel always means a quick 8 hour time adjustment to our bodies, but our vivacious thirty-something tour director, Ivana, swept all 12 of us up yesterday at the airport and got us oriented, fed, and settled into our lovely hotel last night in greater Dubrovnik. This is "base camp" for our first three nights.
After a hardy buffet breakfast we began our tour of the old walled city with a local guide, who gave us a crash course in the history of the five former Yugoslav states that are now Croatia, Montenegro, Herzegovina, Bosnia, and Slovenia. The meaning of all this confusing and tumultuous evolution will, hopefully, gain clarity as we visit these  counties along our way.
It is the first day of fall and it is hot and sunny along the coast. Old Dubrovnik is a 13th century walled city, filled with narrow streets, red tiled roofs, a mixture of religious institutions which reflects its multicultural history, modern shops and restaurants to please the tourists, and, of course, the great wall which surrounds the city and challenged us to climb the many steps to walk  its perimeter. Not for the faint of heart! Lunch at a cool, hidden away courtyard cafe was ample reward for our efforts.
Our sunset gondola ride high above the city offered spectacular views of this most picturesque city and the many islands surrounding it on the Adriatic coastline. What a way to initiate this fine OAT group.

Where in the world is...?

Lainey and Joan are flying to Dubrovnik, Croatia, landing Sept. 22nd, to begin our 5 country tour through the Adriatic. Here is a map of our travel route, ending in Ljubljana, Slovenia. We will witness history in the making.

"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow mindedness..." Mark Twain

It is time for Lainey and cousin Joan to pack the suitcases for the Adriatic: Croatia, Montenegro, Bosnia & Herzegovina, and Slovenia.